Mike Sabina and Jenny Youll's St. Michael's Alley is a glorious reinvention of itself
... if there's any justice in this world, St. Michael's Alley will be filled to the rafters from now on.
The walls are sponged a rich ocher, and dark wood wainscoting and trim add luster to the cozy, square room. Little white Christmas lights outline the windows, and votive candles flicker in cobalt-blue holders next to tiny vases of irises. It's romantic, no bones about it, but it's inviting no matter who's in your party (my girlfriend says it's "rotic"--that's romantic even without the "man"). The artwork changes, but right now it's a moody series of Arctic photos of ice, penguins and very attractive polar bears.
Before it closed in October, St. Mike's did a brisk business at brunch (omelets, scrambles, excellent French toast) and lunch (grilled eggplant sandwich; a great, cheesy pizza marguerite). Youll and Sabina, along with chef Ryan Anderson, were trying to do the same at dinner time. If our recent dinner is any indication, they have perfected the formula.
Wines focus on Santa Cruz Mountains offerings, with a regular printed list and a short chalkboard list of wines by the glass. Despite the pull to buy local, I chose a glass of big, bold Howell Mountain zinfandel ($7.75) to start my meal and my friend nabbed a pint of Mirror Pond pale ale ($3.75), with its coppery color, yeasty fruitiness and dry, hoppy finish. From there, we nibbled dark, crusty walnut bread from the bread basket as we negotiated the menu.
The evening's special soup, a smooth puree of roasted corn ($3), garnished simply with a handful of chopped cilantro, was a lovely foil for the house bruschetta ($5.95). Italians might object to the unorthodox slather of chevre on the crisp baguette slices, but they couldn't complain about the basil- and garlic-flecked tomato compote on top. Our favorite appetizer was a wintry butternut squash tart ($5.25), a pie wedge of light, puff pastry-style dough cradling a sweet puree of butternut squash dotted with caramelized onions and a little tangy Gruyere. To add texture, the top is sprinkled with a bit of fried leek and bread crumbs, and the plate is flecked with chopped herbs.
Also a special, the spring risotto, a bargain at $12.95, lured us with its fresh peas, asparagus, fennel and carrot. I like the arborio in a risotto to have a little more tooth resistance, but the dish was otherwise pleasant (a little extra parmesan cheese might have enriched things). Our other entree was an homage to the passing winter--a grilled pork tenderloin with lots of fixings ($14.95). A big fan of rosy pork slices was smothered in a cinnamony fruit compote and paired with a mound of creamy mashed sweet potatoes and a jumble of glazed beet and carrot cubes.
Desserts at St. Mike's are similarly all-American, lively and bright. A duo of sorbets ($4.25) paired vibrant mango with a ball of tongue-tingling strawberry. A bittersweet chocolate mousse cake ($5.25) brought a bed of intense chocolate sauce onto which a gooey cake slice had been skated, along with a dollop of whipped cream.
Palo Alto will miss out if Youll and Sabina ever get the travel bug again. This country may have a lot of sights to see, but to Youll and Sabina I say, "Remember what Dorothy found out: There's no place like home."
St. Michael's Alley, 806 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 326-2530, www.stmikes.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Atmosphere: A convivial, neighborly feeling makes St. Mike's a great spot for a casual meal with friends, although the food at dinner is sophisticated and contemporary.
Highlights: Although lunch and brunch have a wide following, dinner may be St. Mike's most spectacular offering, with very reasonable prices and lively, unfussy American food. The wine list features many interesting local bottlings. Reservations - recommended at dinner or brunch Credit cards - yes Parking - street Beer and wine only - yes Takeout - yes Banquet - no Wheelchair access - yes Non-smoking - yes Highchairs - yes Outdoor seating - no